Every twenty years banks gather enough interest, through mortgages, to buy every home and commercial building in the country.
How would they ever survive if we chose to build our own mortgage-free homes?
How much better would your life be?
Would you lose any sleep knowing that the banks were suffering?
Originally posted 2016-06-13 15:01:57.
i have always wanted to live in a log cabin….but we regress..
our lender made it impossible with all their regulations.
so now we live in a cookie cutter house on small property..
there are 2 electric meters 2 water meters 2 septic…so my dream is going to stay alive
from washington state,
shelli
Hi Shelli,
Good for you! Don’t let your dream die.
There are always a few hurdles to get around, or jump over, in achieving a handmade home.
But I have always found a way.
Sometimes it’s a blessing when a bank won’t budge… owner financing is a better option.
Noah
I am in the beginning stages of building our family’s dream/retirement home. I’m in the process of bartering my labor and cdl for logs. I found an architect whom specializes in timber frames. I will cut all the timbers and mill them, cut the notches, and use as much as I can from the land it will be on. I’m hoping to also mill and make all the cabinets , flooring, and exterior walls as well.
Might take 5 – 10 years but that’s freedom.
Good for you Ryan!!
Living the dream!!! Congrats!
I could offer you one piece of advice if you are interested… and if it applies to what you have envisioned… Almost all timber frames today are engineered, perhaps over-engineered. A post or a span is needed, a chart is referred to as to what size is suitable and that is what is created. I would recommend spending a little time exploring vintage timber frames and discovering how much more attractive they were in comparison, quite often they were dramatically over-engineered, posts were put into place where they were needed and where they were appealing. I like to reverse engineer my timber frames, find an old one that I like and then reproduce it, or have an architect draw plans to build one just like it. Just a thought.
Just found your site- good information. I’ll be coming back for sure. Me- I just cut log #76 & #77 off my property for use in my log home. My building permit was approved last Friday after I submitted plans I modified myself. I’ll be staking out the corners here in a week, and hopefully, dig before the end of January. It’ll be a 2 story 40×40 with 4 beds/3 baths with a full wrap around porch. I’m not a professional “builder”, and I’m doing this mortgage-free. I’m hoping I can do it for $45k, paying as I go, and get it done in 2-3 years (starting year 2 this year).
For those who are stuck in a mortgage- try to find a way out. I just looked at a finished hand made log home in Nashville- the owner and his wife lived in a trailer on their property for 3 years while they built their log home. They put a makeshift roof over their trailer when it began to leak. Their home is amazing: It’s a 40×40 2 bedroom with a 3/4 wrap around porch, and concrete basement. They just moved into it in September. They built it debt free, paying as they went.
Thanks for sharing Brian!
I look forward to hearing progress reports!… and seeing some photos!
Hi Noah,
I watched your video about using the species of trees available locally. I live in the Great Plains where only cottonwood trees are of any size worthy of log construction.
I have been told that cottonwood is not durable enough for log construction. Do you agree with this position? If not, do you have advice on the use of cottonwood for construction of my log cabin?
Hi Craig,
I have little experience with cottonwood so I hesitate to give a firm opinion on it.
I do know that there are several species used in my area for traditional log construction (hewn) that are extremely prone to rot if used on the exterior in any other form. Tulip poplar, hemlock, and white pine, would all decay into compost withing a year or two if left on the ground here, but have proven to endure for centuries in a traditional log cabin.
My best advice would be for you to build a small one… an outbuilding, or a playhouse… and see how she holds up.
My inclination is that it would be fine… a joy to work with… and attractive… with a high R-value
Thank you, Noah. I will give it a try!
Do you have advice on a chainsaw for use with an Alaskan Sawmill, and a good brand of sawmill for that matter? I’ve heard that 50cc’s is about the least power needed, but I also don’t want a really heavy chainsaw for making notch cuts, etc.
Craig
Hi Craig,
I’m afraid I can’t offer much advise with the use of a portable chain saw mill… I tried it once and it wasn’t for me… (they are great things though, and do wonders)
When it comes to chainsaws I love my Stihl 026 (I don’t think they make that model any more, but if you ask for it’s replacement I’m sure they would set you up. I tend to recommend that everyone buy a saw from a place that sells and services saws… such as Stihl. When it comes to size, yes indeed many buy saws that are too small, or too large. A chainsaw bought at Lowes or Home Depot always disappoints eventually… and the saws that career loggers or firewood cutters use are often too big to use when notching a cabin. If in doubt, buy a Stihl, and get the smallest saw in the Pro lineup… not the largest one in the homeowner line. And get two bars… I find a fourteen inch is great for notching, and a 16 or 18 for cutting firewood. One more comment… I have heard some good things about the new battery powered Stihl (it would be great for notching, but lousy for your mill though) Hope this helps! Noah